Indra Jatra

Now that Autumn has started in Nepal and the weather is beautiful, the season of festivities has begun in Nepal. Kathmandu Valley with its rich heritage is the best place to experience the festivals of the country.

Starting next week from 6th September this year, one of the liveliest religious street festivals in Kathmandu Valley begins – the Indra Jatra festival. Also known as Yenya Punhi, which means full moon day festival of Kathmandu in Newari Language. Indra Jatra is a week long festival with numerous events happening everyday. It is mainly celebrated in Basantapur Durbar Square, however all three major cities of Kathmandu Valley celebrate it.

sawa bhakku dance group

Traditional music played during Indra Jatra

Displaying a huge heap of samye baji

Swet Bhairav of Kathmandu

Indra Jatra is a reenactment of the capturing of Lord Indra, who had come to Kathmandu as a farmer to find the night jasmine flowers for his mother. A tantrik priest recognized him and captured him using his powers.

Later that same night, Indra’s mother herself came down to earth in search of her son. She finds him captured by the priest and she negotiates his release. After the tantrik priest releases Indra, the mother in return blesses Kathmandu Valley with enough dew throughout winter to ensure good harvest of winter crops.

The festival is highlighted by the reenactment of these various events. During the festival a person dressed as the mother of Indra goes around town with a band of musicians. There is also another event where people dressed up as Indra’s vehicle, a white elephant, locally known as pulu kisi goes around town looking for his master. These events are performed on the  streets as onlookers enjoy the retelling of the story.

pulu kisi going around Basantapur Durbar Square during Indra Jatra

Indra Jatra is also celebrated in remembrance of relatives that have passed away during the past year. It is believed that family members of the deceased walk the same path the mother of Indra walked in hopes of seeing their deceased relatives in heaven. These days people light oil lamps along the way while holding incense sticks. this event happens after dark so it is beautiful to see the lamps lights along the path.

Indra Jatra is also the time when people worship Lord Bhairava. the wrathful representation of Lord Shiva. Different manifestation of Lord Bhairava is displayed all over Basantapur area as well as in other cities of Kathmandu Valley. The large mask of Swet Bhairava is revealed to the public only during the Indra Jatra festival. A pipe coming out of the mouth of Bhairava dispenses traditional nepali liquor (aila) and rice beer (thon).

akash bhairav of Kathmandu

Numerous dance groups perform during the Indra Jatra festival accompanied by traditional Newari music. The most famous one is the Lakhe dance, dance of the demon, it is believed that the demon followed goddess Kumari to Kathmandu when she agreed to reside in Kathmandu as the protector of the country. Another popular dance is the Sawa Bhakku group which consist of a blue figure representing Bhairav and two red figures representing his assistants. Other dances include the Devi Dance and Khya dance where many figures representing different deities perform.

Lakhe dance – Dance of the demon

The Kumari Jatra also happens during the Indra Jatra festival. A chariot of Living Goddess Kumari is pulled through different parts of the old settlements of Kathmandu for three days. Along with Kumari’s chariot, The chariots of living representation of Bhairava and Ganesha are also pulled through the city for three days. There is a huge crowd of people during this festival and even the president of Nepal (historically the king) is present to receive blessings from the living goddess.

Living Goddess Kumari in her chariot during Indra Jatra

The locals of the valley celebrate this festival by inviting their relatives to a feast of traditional Newari dish the Samay Baji. It includes beaten rice with assortment of side dishes including black eyed beans, meat, potatoes, fish, full boiled egg, greens, pieces of ginger, soybeans, bara (bean pattie) including others served with a small bowl of aila. There is also a tradition of giving away a mixture of these dishes to the locals. Heaps of Samay Baji is displayed in front of temples and in neighborhoods to give away to people as blessing from Gods. Therefore, children go to different neighborhoods singing “la chaku weka samay baji, wola wola pulu kisi” (“we want samay baji with a piece of meat, look the pulu kisi is already here”).

Samay baji set

Indra Jatra is celebrated with much enthusiasm and enjoyment as it is the first big festival that arrives after the long monsoon months. Many people from all walks of life are present in Basantapur Durbar Square during this festival and it is enjoyed by all. If you are interested in being part of a festival in Nepal, you can contact us for suggestions on dates and events that you would enjoy!

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